The Timeless Way through the Outer Hebrides from Garenin to Loch Morsgail estate

Thursday 25 June 2015

A long day on tarmac.  After carrying out some repairs to my blistered feet and a nice breakfast in the Visitors' Cafe at Garenin I set off in good spirits for Morsgail.

  

The section from Morsgail to Bo'glas was going to be the highlight of my trip. The section of the book about the deserted village at Kinlochresort, the postman's track across the moors and the beehive houses paints a vivid picture of this remote wilderness, its history and the history of the people who lived there, it is magical.

The detour shortly after leaving Garenin to the Broch was interesting. 

I then followed the detour from the main road along a peaty track which turned into a quiet road through Tolsta Chaolais, a smart looking township.  

Back on the main road, a brief detour to Callenish proved fruitless for me.  Callenish post office was closed, a man I asked who looked suspiciously like the Post Office man said it would be open tomorrow at 9 am.  Even the Callanish stones disappointed, they were outnumbered by tourists, so I just took a few pictures and carried on walking, spurred on by the next section ahead.

A fair few cars stopped and asked me if I would like a lift but I had not lost my desire to walk the entire length of the Outer Hebrides at this stage, and thanked those for their kindness.  As I walked for hours, the drizzle turned to rain.  I pitched my tent in a slightly sheltered spot by the river close to Loch Morsgail.  There was no one around to ask permission about entering the Morsgail Estate, as required by a sign at the entrance.  The sign also gave initial directions to the "beehive homes and beyond" and I was excited at the prospect of what the next day would bring.  I had walked for many hours today, much of it on tarmac.  I would recommend hitching or catching a bus to leave out this long stretch of road.

[I did hitch from Garynahine to the garage at Cameron Terrace and back, to stock up on food, I wanted to have enough food on me to cover the next section plus emergencies.  This detour took me about an hour.]