The Timeless Way through the Outer Hebrides, from the Butt of Lewis to Stornoway

Day 1: Tuesday 23 June 2015

What I took:

8 OS maps
Silva Compass
"The Timeless Way" by Peter Clarke
Terra Nova Laser Competition tent
Sleeping bag
Sleeping mat
Emergency survival blanket
Emergency whistle
Spares clothes in a dry bag
Montane 32 litre rucksack
Avon Skin So Soft for midge repellant
Factor 50
Leki lightweight walking poles (x2)
Head torch and spare batteries
First aid kit including blister plasters
Midge net
Towel
Hat and gloves
Food

What I wore:

Salomon Speed Cross running shoes
Running wear
OMM, North Face and Berghaus PacLite water proofs
Bridgedale socks

The route: The Timeless Way 

As the 10.30 am bus from Stornoway to Ness headed North, along the East coast of Lewis, I saw to my right boggy moorland stretching for mile after mile and wondered how long it would take me to walk back to the start of the bus journey, what would the path be like?  I had no idea of what lay ahead.  

I walked from where the bus dropped me for 20 minutes to reach the lighthouse at the Butt of Lewis, and then turned round and started the Timeless Way, pausing for a short detour to the ancient Temple of Europie St Moloug's church.

I was hoping to see an old friend, Duncan, who I hadn't seen since about 1984, I knew he lived on the Western Isles but did not know where.  I found out the night before I set off on my walk that Duncan was on holiday in Greece, which was a shame as I had hoped to surprise him with a knock on his door, I had been told he lived in Ness, and I really was "just passing".

The walk to Stornoway started off well with a bright sky.  Once I had left the townships the road turned into a track which petered out, and I hiked over boggy moorland, Lewis Moor, with views of the sea.  A crossing of the river Cloich was mastered after spending some time working out the best place to cross which turned out to be where the river met the sea.

I realised after I had crossed that I could have gone further inland and found a footbridge and a waterfall which I saw from the distance once I had climbed up a steep bank, I had obviously left the path marked on my map but I did enjoy the route I took.  After a scramble up the bank, I was pleased to find a grassy track which led to a golden beach.

The path gave way to road however at Tolsta and from there it was a weary journey along the tarmac back to Stornoway.

Whilst I would have loved to follow in Peter's footsteps and taken the route across Tong Sands, I didn't think it was a  good idea around 8 pm without knowledge of the times of the tides.

The book however contained interesting information about the history of this area, the involvement of Leverhulme and the bravery of the people who stood up to him and demanded the land which was taken from them, and not returned in spite of promises to the men returning from the Great War.

The old bridge at Gress, where Leverhulme was shamed into backing down in the face of the dignity of the locals and the way they claimed what was theirs, was the site of a memorial to the bravery of the people. 

A few miles further along at Upper Coll was another memorial paying tribute to the bravery of the men who took possession of the land in 1922. 

Approximate walking time 12 noon to 10.30 pm

The off road section was fabulous, the stretch from Tolsta to Stornoway by road could be done by bus.

According to Peter Clarke this section is 32 miles long.

I stayed that night in a hotel as the hostel was full and it was nearly dark when I reached Stornoway, I didn't have the will to wild camp in the grounds of the castle.